I discovered toad lilies when I spotted an advertisement
in a garden magazine. Toad lilies were described as exotic plants with small
orchid-like flowers that liked shade and bloomed late. The photo showed
gracefully arching leafy stems with lovely flowers covering the length of the
stems. I was hooked. I knew I had to get toadies for my shady garden in
Independence, Missouri. I loved the funny name and I was frustrated trying
to find plants that bloomed late in the season in my shady garden.
That was about eight years ago. Since then I have planted more than 40 toad lily
plants representing more than 18 various species, hybrids and varieties. I love
their first burst of flowers, some as early as August when few other things are
blooming, and I love that some are still blooming when the first hard frost
hits, sometimes as late as November. They look wonderful with the few other
perennials that bloom late in my garden -- monkshood (Aconitum fischeri)
bugbane (Cimicifuga simplex) and white snakeroot (Eupatorium
rugosum). However, not all varieties thrived in my garden. Currently I have
about a dozen different flavors of toadies in my garden.
It is said that toad lilies get their name from a tribe in the Philippines that
believes rubbing the juice from the flowers and leaves on their hands helps
catch frogs by attracting them and making them less slippery. So that gives the
plant a practical side if you need to catch some frogs in your garden.
Toad lilies are in the Tricyrtis genus with the formosana, hirta, macropoda and
latifolia species most often offered for sale. Hybrids or cultivars of these
species make up most of what is generally in cultivation in the United States.
Toad lilies are natives of the eastern Himalayas of Nepal and China and extend
their range from Japan and south to Taiwan and the Philippines. They are very
popular in Japan where many variegated sports have been discovered. They are
rhizomatous and die back in in the winter.
I started out buying a half dozen hirta species plants
by mail order. The hirta species grows about two feet tall and produces a clump
of arching stems that develop dozens of flowers along the length of each stem.
That was what I saw advertised in the magazine.
Toad lilies flowers are small, no bigger than shirt buttons, and come in a wide
variety of colors ranging from white and to very dark purple. Many flowers show
a white background heavily spotted with various shades of blue to purple such as
shown by the formosana and hirta species. Some hybrids and cultivars show
flowers that are white with a darker shading of blue or pink along the flower
edge along with these spots. There are also pure white flowered varieties and
some that just have a slight blush of color along the edge of white flowers. A
few show yellow flowers
The small flowers demand that toad lilies be planted in the front of the garden
or close to a path so they can be seen close up. On this website are close-up
photos of various toad lily flowers that have bloomed in my garden. All photos
were taken by me.
The hirta species are showy when then are covered with flowers along the stem
but generally bloom only a couple of weeks. The formosana and macropoda species
and their hybrids and cultivars produce flowers in bracts at the end of the stem
instead of along the entire stem. They do not show as many flowers at the same
time as the hirta type but will keep on producing flowers at their tip ends for
many weeks.
After that first mail ordered purchase I later found a good source for toadies
much closer to home at a local garden center. I found a wide selection of
hybrids and cultivars of toad lilies there and it broke my heart when that
nursery closed. The other garden centers I have visited in the Kansas City area
offer limited varieties and some offer no plants at all.
No matter what type of toady you pick they all prefer well-drained woodland soil
with lots of organic material. They also like to be constantly moist, which can
be a challenge in the often hot, dry summers of our area. I mulch my entire
garden heavily in the winter with cotton burr compost, which all my shady plants
seem to love. Since I also grow a dozen varieties of astilbe in my shady garden
(which also require lots of water) I initially laced hundreds of feet of soaker hose
throughout my garden to help meet moisture needs. After I retired I abandoned
the soaker hose system because I found it watered the garden unevenly. I now
have time to water my garden by hand and by tripod sprinkler.
Toad lilies are not without their problems, though. Although I have found them
to be generally not bothered by insects, rabbits or deer some varieties seem to
be more susceptible to fungus disease than others. The fungus attack the leaves,
generally from the bottom, turning the leaves yellow and later brown.
Because the fungus attacks at the bottom first, it makes me think that the
problem is related to dampness from morning dew and lack of air circulation to
dry the moisture quickly. A regular dousing with a good fungicide helps as does
pulling off the diseased leaves and discarding them someplace away from the
garden. I have had the worst problems with a hybrid called 'Blue Wonder' but
some degree of the problem has been shown by most plants. Mostly it just affects
the look of the plant. However, smaller, newly planted young plants are
susceptible to being completely defoliated by the fungus if they are not
treated.
Although toadies are advertised to grow and bloom well in shade, as we all know
there are various types of shade. Plant them where they get at least some
dappled sun during parts of the day and maybe some full sun for a couple of
hours in the morning. If they are placed in too dark of a spot they may grow and
even bloom but they will not flourish. If you plant some of the new variegated
types the variegation will be more prominent if they are placed where they can
get some early morning sun or at least dappled sun for a goodly time.
The variegated cultivators generally can be disappointing if you expect to see
prominent marking on the leaves. Generally they show some subtle white along the
edge of the leaves. Two of the better variegated cultivars in my experience are
the 'Guilt Edge' and 'Samurai'. A cultivar offered called ‘Guilty Pleasure’ was
advertised as having leaves that came out lime green in color and turned to
“gold” as the season progressed. In my garden the leaves on this cultivar just
stayed lime green the entire summer. The leaves were much lighter in color than
the other toadies I have in the garden, so I initially was satisfied with that.
However, it did not survive it first winter.
I found a variegated toadie called 'Imperial Banner'
that has most prominent variegation I have seen yet. The leaves have a dark
green edge with a bright white streak through the leave's centers. I eagerly
purchased five small plants to test. Alas none returned the next year.
One of the real benefits of the named cultivars is that many do not get as tall
as the normal species. They make lovely specimen plants when tucked
in along the edges of the garden. The formosana species get about three feet tall in dappled
sun and as tall as four feet in places where they get full sun in early morning.
So the shorter variegated cultivars are perfect for planting in front of the
taller species.
When you are shopping for toad lilies be sure to check if they are hardy for the
zone you garden is in. One of my favorite toadies is Tricyrtis formosana 'Amethystina'. It
has drop dead gorgeous flowers tipped with dark blue on the petal ends with
light red spots on a white background through the remainder of the white
flower. It starts blooming in mid July and continues to bloom into fall.
Unfortunately it's a Zone 7 plant and won't survive most winters in my Zone 5
area.
A small
garden center close to my house used to offer these plants in July. I would
treat them as annuals by putting some in pots on both sides of the shady bench
in my garden. That way I could enjoy the flowers up close when I sat on my shady
bench afternoons reading a novel, something I do most summer days after the
gardening is done. More recently I found some pots of 'Amethystina' at a
garden center marked that they are good through Zone 5. I got two, one to put in
a pot to take inside in the winter and the other to plant in the garden.
Maybe it's a new variant that is more cold hardy.
A good book that covers toad lilies is W.
George Schmid's An Encyclopedia of Shady Perennials. There also is excellent
information about toad lilies on the Internet.
The Chicago Botanical Garden ran 10-year-long tests on which toad lilies did the best in the Midwest.
“Toad lilies are noteworthy perennials for their late-season flowers, and with
few exceptions are superb garden plants for the Midwest,” the report said.
“Excellent ratings were given to Tricyrtis formosana and ‘Miyazaki’
because of their superior floral displays, robust habits, winter hardiness and
disease resistance. Flower production on the other toad lilies was usually low
at peak bloom, but extended flowering periods of six to 10 weeks were not
uncommon.”
Schmid's book mentions some toadies produce
yellow flowers, the flava and oshumiensis species and a cultivar named 'Amanagawa'.
I think I want some of those plants. The problem, however, is there are just too
many kinds of toadies and my garden is getting too full to plant them all. But I
can try, can't I? I discovered a new variety of toad lilies at my garden center
in May 2010 - Tricyrtis latifolia 'Yellow Sunrise'. It's suppose to sport yellow
flowers with brown spots. I will squeeze it in somewhere. Stay tuned.
To go directly to photos of toad lilies that have
bloomed in my garden click here.
Bibliography
Books
Armitage, Allan M. - Armitage's Garden Perennials. Portland, Oregon: Timber Press
Inc., 2000
Schmid, W. George - An Encyclopedia of Shade Perennials. Portland, Oregon: Timber
Press Inc., 2002
Chatto, Beth - Beth Chatto's Woodland Garden. London: The Octopus Publishing
Group, 2002
Cramer, Harriet L. - The Shadier Garden. New York: Crescent Books, 1997
Primary Source
Personal experience of growing toad lilies in my own garden.
Tricyrtis macropoda (White flowers with purple spots)
Tricyrtis hybrid 'Blue Wonder' (Blue flowers)
Tricyrtis hybrid Taipei Silk' (Blue flowers with purple spots)
Tricyrtis hybrid 'Tojen' (Lavender-purple flowers with white eyes)
Pending further trials:
Tricyrtis formosana 'Amethystina'
(White and blue flowers with red spots)
Tricyrtis latifolia 'Yellow Sunrise' (Yellow flowers with brown spots)
Planted unsuccessfully:
Tricyrtis hirta 'Moonlight' (White with dark lavender spots)
Tricyrtis hybrid 'Hatatogisa' (Blue flowers with purple spots)
Tricyrtis hybrid 'Guilty Pleasure' (Foliage is yellow)
Tricyrtis hybrid 'Kohaku' (White flowers with violet spots)
Tricyrtis hybrid 'Shirthotogisu' (White flowers)
Tricyrtis hybrid 'Sinonome' (White flowers
Those varieties that did not survive
in my garden may have been planted in bad spots. Some had their roots torn up by my resident garden mole, which has
managed to evade my most clever efforts to eradicate it. An extremely
late spring freeze in 2007 damaged some young plants so badly that they never
returned. Instead of mourning these lost plants I consider garden space left
behind as an excuse to try a different toadie cultivar.
There is also a controversy on whether an unknown virus
is infecting some plants and whether that is producing dark splotches on
flowers. Click
here to read about that.